SAN FRANCISCO, California — Waves as tall as a 4-story building are headed for the California coast this weekend. A massive storm with hurricane-force winds out in the North Pacific is churning up seas close to 50 feet, and that energy is racing toward land. Surf could reach 30 to 35 feet on Saturday November 14, with some spots near San Francisco seeing sets up to 50 feet.
A Monster Storm Far Out at Sea
The source of these giant waves is a powerful storm spinning hundreds of miles offshore in the North Pacific Ocean. Its winds are blowing at hurricane force, pushing across a huge stretch of open water. The longer and harder wind blows over the ocean, the bigger the waves grow.
Our wave map shows open-ocean wave heights peaking in the 40 to 48 foot range far offshore between Thursday and Sunday. Those waves are now spreading out across the ocean toward the West Coast.
Why 18 Seconds Between Waves Matters
The waves heading for California are arriving as a swell, which is energy from a distant storm traveling across the ocean. These swells are expected to arrive about 18 seconds apart. That long gap between waves is a sign of a very powerful swell.
Waves spaced that far apart carry energy deep below the surface. When they reach shallow water near the coast, all that energy gets pushed upward, causing the waves to stand up much taller than they looked out at sea. That is why surf near the shore can grow so large.
Sets Up to 50 Feet Near San Francisco
The biggest surf is expected near San Francisco, where sets could reach as high as 50 feet. A set is a group of the largest waves that roll in together, often after a lull that can fool people into thinking the ocean has calmed down.
Waves this size are rare even for the California coast. Famous big-wave surf spots in the area may draw crowds, but the conditions will be extremely dangerous for anyone near the water.
Eureka Braces for 30 to 35 Foot Surf
Farther north, Eureka is expected to see surf of 30 to 35 feet. The northern California coast is fully exposed to swells from the North Pacific, so these waves will hit with very little to slow them down. Beaches, jetties and harbor entrances in the area could see powerful wave action.
Saturday Brings the Peak
- Thursday: The storm builds open-ocean seas far offshore.
- Friday: The swell begins moving toward the California coast.
- Saturday: Surf peaks at 30 to 35 feet, with sets to 50 feet in some spots.
- Sunday: Large waves linger before slowly easing.
Sneaker Waves Can Strike Without Warning
One of the biggest dangers with long-period swells is sneaker waves. These are waves that suddenly run much farther up the beach than earlier waves, sweeping people off their feet and dragging them into cold, rough water. They often come after several minutes of smaller waves.
Strong rip currents, powerful backwash and floating logs tossed by the surf add to the danger. Cold water temperatures make it even harder for anyone swept in to survive.
Stay Off the Rocks This Weekend
- Stay far back from the water’s edge, even if waves look small for a while.
- Never turn your back on the ocean while on the beach.
- Stay off rocks, jetties and seawalls, where waves can break over without warning.
- Keep children and pets close and away from the surf zone.
- Watch big waves from a safe, high spot well away from the shoreline.
- Boaters should stay in port until conditions calm down.
Boxingessential.com will continue tracking the giant surf along the California coast, including San Francisco and Eureka, and will provide updates as wave heights, beach hazards and the North Pacific storm develop through the weekend.
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